Hatmaker Week 12, March 2019: Awaken the past and a weekend getaway
IN THIS BLOG…
Another eventful week. As I am writing this I am sitting in Gothenburg, around 2.5 h train ride from Lund. Took the night train over in order to spend the entire Saturday in the city. Sun is out but the air is still cold.
I completed and shipped another LEIFUR ‘Lucky’ Fedora and a IVAR HOMBURG, at the beginning of the week.
Finally I completed my new project, which has been on my mind for a very long time. It’s the type of hat that lived through the Great Depression of United States during the 1930s. Actors, politicians and simple folks wore this style of hat with their daily attire. It can be seen in photos from the past, movies from that era but not so much from newly made movies etc. FLOKI FEDORA by HUFVUD.
Bowlers are back on my workbench. Just started to bind the brim of this HJALMAR BOWLER in Royal Blue. More Bowlers coming up within the next few weeks as well.
Read on to know the great details!
LEIFUR LUCKY FEDORA
Every week I work on a LEIFUR ‘Lucky’ Fedora. Every time they are different, and it makes it so much more enjoyable to create. Tailored to someones needs and imagination. When someone asks for a Leifur to be made in a different color, that’s where the creativity can truly spark.
I wonder if someone will order a 30X Beaver Blend in Royal Blue and asks to have it made into LEIFUR style. Here is a hidden competition to see if these lines are read properly. I will make a 30X Beaver Blend Royal Blue Leifur to anyone for the price of a regular hat with free shipping to anywhere to the first one who asks me to make it for them (USD 250 vs USD 285 plus shipping). Competition ends before 1st of May 2019, winner will be presented in social media. Good Luck!
The essential hat that has been with me since the beginning of Hufvud is SVEN HOMBURG, named after my late grandfather. IVAR HOMBURG, on the other hand, is an extension of that same hat made with more character. The brim and the height of the crown are same, unless made custom. What differs is the crown crease. Its a slightly pinched crown at the front and sides and it makes a great impact on the look. Many early homburgs had a great curl made to the brim, which I suppose is a remnant from the top silk hats and bowlers. Then they got more flattened out while still maintaining a slight curve on the sides of the brim (this is purely from observation).
I am always pleased to create a different style of Homburg and try to make it as close to the originals as possible. The brim however is stitched by hand and by me alone. No machine and no extra help. That’s why orders take 8 - 9 weeks to complete as they arrive. As I work simultaniously with other simpler hats I tend to be able to finish other orders before a Homburg is completed. Not to jump the line, its just that there are more periods where the hat needs to try properly in order to continue with the next step.
I am not claiming that this a true replica of the past. It’s an inspirational piece made as a sample for me to showcase and wear. I seldom make hats for myself, even though there are lots that I would like to wear myself. Can you believe that I make a lot of 100X Beaver LEIFUR hats and I have not made a single one for myself. But the joy and gratitude I receive from creating hats for others is rewarding enough.
FLOKI FEDORA is actually a style that I wanted to create for a long time ( there are plenty more where that came from). Have a look at the inspirational photos below to see what I mean. Great depression era hats looks just like I want HUFVUD hats to feel like. You pinch it, or dent the crown and the feedback is that it stays that way. With a simple flick on the felt from the inside it should snap right back. Pliable and just wonderful to hold is how a felt should be, in my mind. Though, a felt can be finished i various ways but I always had a certain vision of how a hat should feel like.
By looking at the photos, it was a horrible time in history, but the hats create a certain character. The hats looked very abused and there is a story behind them. If I ever was asked to reshape and block and old hat, I wouldn’t do it. The way it is, old and beaten, is magnificent as is. The one I made is from a 100X Beaver felt (100% Beaver) with a cotton/rayon grosgrain ribbon. The crown is roughly 5.5 inches tall and the brim is dimensional cut at 2 inches, give or take. I adore this hat, I am going wear it, weather it fits me or not. It deserves to be seen out and about.
For the next week I will be working on the following hats:
HJALMAR BOWLER, 30X Beaver Blend, Royal Blue Color
HJALMAR BOWLER, Rabbit & Hare, Sand Color
LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare, Sand Color
RAGNAR FEDORA, 100X Beaver, Emerald Gray Color
Should you be looking for a new hat, I am always available to discuss and help you create your dream hat. Recreate something your grandfather wore or something from a family photo.
Have a great weekend!
/ Mikael Einarsson | HUFVUD HATMAKER | Visiting Gothenburg