Hatmaker Week 16, April 2019: Underwelt Brim and Spring weather


Amazing weather just hit south of Sweden again. I think the spring is here to stay now. A close friend of mine spoke with a local farmer that had seen Magpie birds nesting lower to the ground, which would indicate a wet and cold summer is to be expected. Very intelligent birds, let’s see if they will be right about the summer weather in 2 months time. With this warm spring I hope it turns out be a lovely summer as well.

My previous post was an emotional one, but very important to get out. I celebrate small victories every chance I get. This can be everything from learning how to ride a bike or just building up the courage to kiss someone for the first time. By celebrating, could be just simply sitting down and reflecting about it, gives you a much needed insight in what just happened and be proud about it. I made something new this week, and I am for sure proud of it. Underwelted brim.


Week Creations: Underwelt

It’s something I have not attempted before, but it has been on my to do list for a while. Every time I receive an request to make something different, I simply just jump on it. I must do it. This time it’s an underwelted brim, by hand. I do not trust my current sewing machine to do any of the stitching work, or I just don’t have the right skill to utilize it properly. Though, Hatmakers in the past did have different kinds of sewing machines that do not exist anymore. There are reproductions out there, I just have not found the right supplier yet. Would love to get one. If you know any, please reach out.

Why underwelt and what is it good for? I honestly do not know the history of this type of brim. I know, from reading around the web, that the underwelt would help to let the rain run off much better than an overwelted brim. Underwelt, in this case, is when a part of the edge is folded, either under or over, the brim then stitched secure to form a different kind of edge. It also protects the brim in making it stronger from wear, just like binding the brim with a ribbon. I would say, with my little experience of this kind of brim, that it is more sturdy than a bound edge and the snap function of the front is just amazing. It also has to do with the look of the hat. From under the hat, the brim looks stunning with an underwelt, but equally amazing with an overwelt, seen from behind.

How did I do this? It took me approximately the same amount of time to make this brim than to bind it with a ribbon. I start by shaping the brim, by hand. Carefully heating up the wet edge and fold it under the brim as evenly as possible. I probably go over it a couple of times and let it dry over night to make sure the felt has settled in its new position. Once it’s dry I start to stitch the edge (by hand) with a thread color as close to the felt color as possible. Probably a little bit darker than the felt. Once I am done I can do an additional shaping of the brim and once it is dry, it looks amazing.

If you are looking to get one of these made, I strongly recommend it. Though the felt needs to be more light weight I recommend doing this one of my 30X Beaver blends or the 100X Beaver felts. I will put this type of hat up on my site as soon as possible, but feel free to send me an email to request.


A lot of stitching was done this week. I started the week by finishing up an IVAR Homburg. Been waiting on the correct ribbon to arrive before I could finish this one up. I am truly glad with the outcome. Looks amazing and the mix of colors is very different. Every time I receive an order for one of these its fun to mix different colors together. I am glad to assist with the mixing and to recommend the felt as well. IVAR is very close to SVEN Homburg. The only difference is the shape of the crown. Though if you are looking for a different look then I am glad to oblige. Creating with this 30X Beaver blend is a pure joy. The touch of the crown is just amazing and it’s such an easy task to reshape the crown to your need.


I continued working on a HJALMAR Bowler in a Emerald Gray Color. Its in a 30X Beaver blend and will be completed with a brown ribbon and brim binding.

I also have two LEIFUR Fedoras in both Dark Brown Rust and Sable Brown that I am completing next week. Both of them are in 100X Beaver felt. Sweatband has been stitched into both hats and they are just waiting on a ribbon and a liner, in one of the two, to be inserted.

New hats on the block:

  • HJALMAR BOWLER, 100X Beaver Felt, Sable Brown

  • LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare Felt, Sable Brown

I might start with more, but I need to start the week by finishing up the leftover hats from this week. Currently I am a bit ahead of schedule for some hats and just a few have fallen behind. More bound edges than before to complete and more sweatbands to stitch by hand.

Happy Easter and have a great weekend!


Mikael Einarsson | HUFVUD HATMAKER | Lund, Sweden