Hatmaker Week 24, June 2019: A True King - What do you wear in the city?
Are there really distinctions between what is a suitable hat for the city and for the countryside? Just as the clothing industry has divided the fashion for what to wear in the wild, there are certain hats that you could wear more comfortably in a city environment. Dress hats to be exact. Or hats with a mid-length to short brim. I personally wear nothing wider than 6 cm brims, 2 3/8 inches. It’s a personal taste and brim length is related to what you are comfortable wearing. It also has to do with the proportions of the face. It took me quite a while to figure out what I love to wear.
Short brimmed hats, with a mid-height or taller crown, do look pretty amazing. Don’t get me wrong, all hats are amazing but sometimes it’s worth to celebrate and commemorate certain hat styles. Everyone have their own taste in hats and if you are one of those, I hope you like what I made this week. Perhaps the wide brims are just in the way of pedestrians when walking down the streets? Perhaps easier to hang several hats in a cafe if the brims are shorter? The height of hats apparently shrank as cars got lower. What do you think? Are shorter brimmed hats the king of the streets?
I love wearing a LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA in various colors and proportions. The photos above are not of a standard LEIFUR. It’s closer to OLAFUR FEDORA. Shorter brim, 5.0 - 6.0 cm brim ( 2 - 2 3/8 inches). The Sand colored OLAFUR was made as a request and the Sable Brown 30X Beaver was made as a test hat. I just received a new shippment of 30X Beaver felts, more lightweight than before. Actually it arrived the week before, i just forgot to include it in last week blog. It’s a new standard for my hats and I am slowly building up the stock of this felt for the future. More breathable and just amazing to shape it up with a little steam. That felt is so dense that the edges had been cut in order to stay straight.
I had the opportunity to make another LOKI OPEN ROAD WESTERN FELT hat in Sand color. This stiff felt is the perfect countryside hat that can take a beating from weather and wind. Is it not a city hat? This LOKI hat is made with a shorter brim at. 7 cm vs the traditional western at minimum 8 cm or more ( 2 3/4 - 3 inches). The upward curved brim does make this a more suitable city hat, if we follow the previous mentioned arguments. The LOKI was made for a local repeat client of mine that took it out for a spin the same night he received it. Though, western hats are super hard to wear at first. Some time is needed to break the hat in and let it adapt to the wearer. For an experienced western hat enthusiast, I am sure that is not a problem at all.
Still got a few weeks before I commence my two weeks vacation (much needed). I think last vacation I had, or very short vacation, was during Christmas. When I think of it, it was only a long weekend for me. Last vacation was September 2018, 7 days. I have not taken consecutive 14 days off from making hats since I started in early 2017.
I thought I would start to divide the hats that I am working on in different stages to let you know what needs to be done and how far I have gotten. Some hats are mentioned during two weeks in my blog. It’s because I managed to commence the creation but still have details to complete the week after. Let me know if you like the new presentation or not. I hope it gives a little bit more insight in what is needed to make a fedora, 100% by hand.
Stages of making a HUFVUD hat:
STAGE 1: Prepare and block out the hat (2 day process at most)
STAGE 2: Prepare and Stitch Sweatband - > Stamp Sweatband and Assemble (1 day)
STAGE 3: Attach Sweatband to the trimmed felt - > Shape and trim the brim (1 Day)
STAGE 4: Brim binding ( Part I, II or III) - Attach crown ribbon (2 - 3 days sewn by hand)
STAGE 5: Attach Liner and crease the crown/ brim -> All final touches (1 Day)
I will include these stages in future posts and you will be able to see which stage each hat is on.
LOKI OPEN ROAD, Rabbit & Hare, SAND
OLAFUR FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare, SAND
Currently Working On:
SVEN HOMBURG, Rabbit & Hare Blend, SABLE BROWN - STAGE 4: Part II binding
LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, 30X Beaver, SABLE BROWN - STAGE 4: Ribbon Attachment
LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, 100X Beaver, Dark Brown Rust - STAGE 3
LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare Blend, SABLE BROWN - STAGE 2
On The Block Next Week:
RAGNAR FEDORA, 100X Beaver, DARK BROWN RUST
LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare, SAGE GREEN
LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, 30X Beaver, SABLE BROWN
With this I think I am halfway through all orders from April this year. With 3 weeks left I might be able to commence the orders from May just to get a headstart. Once I am back from vacation I will be putting in extra hours again just to catch up.
Hope you are having a great weekend and a great summer! Midsummer celebration coming up next week in Sweden. More on that next week.
Mikael Einarsson | HUFVUD HATMAKER | Lund, Sweden