Hatmaker Week 32, August 2019: Making of HUFVUD Hats and New Colors!

Blog Banner Week 32.jpg

I was hoping to show more color varieties in this week blog post. Unfortunately you would have to wait for next week. A lovely Royal Blue 30X Beaver Blend and Camel felts in Rabbit & Hare Blend are near complete. The Brim Binding on the Royal Blue perhaps will delay that hat, but hope to have it done by end of the week. After that I have a bunch of LEIFUR Hats coming up. And both HOMBURGS and BOWLERS on the order list.

This week has been a focus on LEIFUR Hats, again. I think this might be the first Bound Edge Brim LEIFUR that I have made with a dimensional cut brim (slightly shorter sides than the front and back. I am glad to be making hats with a lovely 50mm wide ribbon for that 30s look that I love.

From next week I am moving house, as well as my entire studio. The current studio is half packed down in boxes that I will start to move from Monday. It should not cause any delays in production, just longer days for me. It’s the beginning of a new era for HUFVUD and for my life in general. I hope to have a better place to work and improved work/life balance overall. It will also give me a chance to expand by showing more media/ videos of the work that is put into making hats.

New colors are planned to arrive before the end of the year. In 100X Beaver and/or 50X Beaver two new colors will be available. Oxblood and Dark Navy will be available. I am not able to showcase the colors at the moment other than swatches that I have. Though, ordering from swatches turns out to be totally different once the full felt hoods arrive. I am already thinking of new colors for the beginning of 2020, but not yet confirmed. Will share more when we are getting closer.

It takes roughly 3 months to have a hat made. Why is this? Don’t you have an army of tailors that stitch and work the fancy machines that make hats? Not at all. All handmade and made by me alone. I have often thought about expanding to have apprentices and hired help. Though, it’s too expensive to hire in Sweden and the cost of workforce in general would drain the coffers before I would have the chance to purchase more materials for making hats. Then again, I can proudly state that HUFVUD Hats are all 100% made by hand. Leather sweatband is cut out from large leather hides and stitched every evening for the next hat in line. Days are for blocking and evenings for stitching. 05:00 a.m. to 16:00 p.m. with additional hours in the evening. Perhaps 20:00 - 22:00.

As for machines, I have none. Iron and a steamer as well as a leather stamping machines is about it. The felt needs to be worked for days and dry up before moving on to the next step. The amount of wooden blocks restricts the number of hats that can be blocked at the same time. Also the space of the studio makes a restriction for how much I can handle.

This is the reality of HUFVUD. The good thing is, that I enjoy this process very much. I often compare my life prior to HUFVUD, with 12h working days slaving for an unknown purpose. HUFVUD has given me my soul back. Health improved and my mind is as clear as it has ever been. I know share my life with my soulmate. She not only is my dream partner in life but also my very best friend.

PSX_20190810_071328.jpg
PSX_20190805_210123.jpg

Here is what I have finished this week and still working on for the next.

Stages of making a HUFVUD hat:

  • STAGE 1: Prepare and block out the hat (2 day process at most)

  • STAGE 2: Prepare and Stitch Sweatband - > Stamp Sweatband and Assemble (1 day)

  • STAGE 3: Attach Sweatband to the trimmed felt - > Shape and trim the brim (1 Day)

  • STAGE 4: Brim binding ( Part I, II or III) - Attach crown ribbon (2 - 3 days sewn by hand)

  • STAGE 5: Attach Liner and crease the crown/ brim -> All final touches (1 Day)

I will include these stages in future posts and you will be able to see which stage each hat is on.

Completed Hats:

  • LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, 30X Beaver, EMERALD GRAY

  • LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare Blend, SABLE BROWN

Currently Working On:

  • OLAFUR FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare Blend, CAMEL - Stage 4

  • RAGNAR FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare Blend, CAMEL - Stage 4

  • RAGNAR FEDORA, 30X Beaver, ROYAL BLUE - Stage 2

  • LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, 30X Beaver, SABLE BROWN - Stage 2

On The Block Next Week:

  • LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, Rabbit & Hare Blend, SABLE BROWN

  • LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, 100X Beaver, SABLE BROWN

  • LEIFUR Lucky FEDORA, 100X Beaver, SABLE BROWN

I hope you all are having a great weekend!

Regards,

Mikael Einarsson | HUFVUD HATMAKER | Lund, Sweden